The Namib desert dunes in Namibia have been there for millions of years. Some believe it was the sand of the Orange river that was spilled into the strong Benguela current and carried back on land by strong winds that created these staggering high red sand dunes.
Any photographers dream, these red sand dunes are among the highest in the world. Dune 45 at 170 meters tall is the most well-known dune chosen to climb by those who visit the Sossusvlei area.
This relatively ‘easy’ climb takes anywhere from 40 minutes to one hour to reach the top, for most people. Coming down takes less than 5 minutes (and is a lot of fun).
However the tallest dune, which towers over the iconic dead vlei with its 800 year old desiccated trees is Big Daddy at Sossusvlei. Only the brave, and possibly self-deluded, would take that on…
As we were staying at Kulala Desert Lodge, a Wilderness Safaris property we were able to enter the Park via their private gate which opens at sunrise. Most self-drive clients have to travel via the Sesriem Gate which is about an hour’s extra drive to get to the start of these dunes. So it’s worth booking a guided tour even if you are booked on a DBB basis. The government-owned SossusDune Lodge and the campers at Sesriem campsite are allowed to set off one hour prior to sunrise. But everyone else has to queue at the Main Gates which only open at sunrise. In order to have a dune to themselves, Kulala guests typically bypass Dune 45 and head straight to Big Daddy.
The Climb:
We arrived just after 7.15 am at the parking spot for Big Daddy and the Dead Vlei. And then started our steep climb up to the first plateau… Climbing even this first ridge of Big Daddy offers stunning views of Dead Vlei. Most people choose to stop after they reached that point, around 45 minutes of huffing and puffing. . .
After only half an hour, I think we realized what a huge task we had taken on. It was December and so the African sun was hot even at that time of the morning. After the first ridge, you actually go downhill again. Though the short relief from the relentless climb was welcome, I couldn’t help but rue the meters of hard-won height that I was losing.
Then we started the main ascent, it is not the height of the dune that is the issue. Even though it is the highest dune, it is still only 380 meters, just over 1100 ft. No, what kills you is the soft sand into which you sink and slide downwards. As we began to climb again, I found myself counting under my breadth. I allowed myself a rest after every 60 steps.
About half way up the ridge was a patch of soft sand. It was only 30 meters or so but I felt as if I was climbing Everest! For every step you took, you sank back. In the end I found the easiest option was to stick my bum in the air and use my hands to climb like a monkey. That worked and then we were over the worst of it.
